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Roots tourism, rewriting history? The case of Ghana

Roots tourism, rewriting history? The case of Ghana
Author: Charlotte Friess
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The historic slave forts and castles on Ghana's coast are important sites for diasporic roots tourists from the USA, but conflicts between African Diaspora and Ghanaians around the legacy of those sites are existing, as the castles have not only been used for the slave trade. Among that, the meeting of tourists, no matter which race and local people on these sites of memory invite the re-visit of the history which can help to bring peace and commemorate all together the death of thousands of people, promising it will never happen again.

Keywords: roots tourism, Ghana, blackspot, African Diaspora

'Sankofa', is an Ghanaian word which means that one must return to the past in order to move forward so he understands why and how he came to be who he is today. Afro-American, fought in the 50's, 60's and early 70's for civil rights, equality and freedom and succeed to re-established the loss of their African pride, but the connection to their 'Homeland' was still unclear. Not really African but neither American, Afro Americans-began in the 1990's to travel to Africa in order to reconnect with the land of their ancestor. This so called roots tourism converges in Ghana around issues of memory and tourism. The country has a range of forts and castles, such as the famous Elmina Castles designated World heritage site from the UNESCO, testifying the slave trade of the mid Atlantic. Aware of this unique historical and cultural legacy, the government support strongly the preservation and promotion of those sites, as tourism has the potential to grow and boost the country's economy.
But Afro Americans are not sharing this vision. In their point of view, the Elmina Castle is a sacred place or so called "blackspot" because it is a place where their ancestors suffered and died. It is the only material connection with their past, a site of memory where they can make peace with themselves and move forward.
The Elmina Castle was not only a trade point, it had different use as the Dutch and later the British colonized Ghana. In other words, its legacy goes far beyond the legacy of the slave trade.
Thus Ghanaians see a lot of potential in developing the site, claiming that their history didn't stop at the time of slavery but that they moved forward. In their eyes, Afro Americans are foreigners such as any other tourist coming to Ghana, and cannot impose to stop the legacy of the caste at the time of slavery.
However, Ghanaians and Afro-Americans have clearly a common history. By being confronted to it, Afro-Americans are going through a very painful process, especially when they find themselves in the Dungeon of the castle, trying to imagine how their ancestor suffered.But this experience takes them further. They realize that not only white men, but also what they call brothers and sisters, sold 200 years ago their brothers and sisters to the whites as slaves. These findings do not only affect Afro-Americans but Ghanaians as well, which invites them to revisit and reconsider their common history and how it is being taught. Unfortunately what happened in the past cannot be changed, but one can learn to move forward. In fact even if it is in a very small proportion, 'White Americans' or Europeans are coming to Ghana to experience the legacy of slavery. Even though their feelings are not comparable to the one of Afro-American, they testify pain, disgust and a strong will of not letting that happen again. This might not change the history, but roots tourism can in this case bring a 'wind of peace'.

Bruner, E. M. (1996) Tourism in Ghana: The representation of Slavery and the return of the Black Diaspora. American Anthropologist, (98)2, pp. 290-304.

Handley, F. (2006) Back to Africa, Issue of hosting roots tourism in West Africa. Haviser, J. and Mac Donald, K. (eds) African re-genesis, confronting social issues in the Diaspora. Walnut Creek, CA: Left coast Press.

Finley, C. (2007) Of Golden Anniversaries and Bicentennials: the Convergence of Memory, Tourism and National History in Ghana. Journeys: The International Journal of Travel and Travel Writing, (7)2, pp.15-32.